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All the latest tidbits:
- Stingray Corvette Day 2 & 3
- Stingray Corvette Build Day 1
- Was that… April?
- Vintage Collection- SGI Fuel
- Fraudulent City of Thornton
ALL EQUIPMENT SOLD IS TESTED! As demonstrated here:
“Hello Computer” HAHA
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furst time on the site like it alought man.
looking forwred to helping you with all the cool shit you have going on. expeshuly the bike lol.
latter man good to see so much fun stuff!!!!!
Woot, yeah, works now. Thanks!That’s a pretty good idea budliing into one of their more standardized form factor cases. I hadn’t even considered that with a 330. Would expect it to be a bit easier than modding an O2 or Octane.It’s sad, but IRIX is largely relegated to legacy apps, infrastructure that hasn’t yet been ported away, and novelty. Most of the freeware stopped getting maintained in the mid-2000s. Amazingly, IRIX 6.5 will be supported until Dec 2013. It’s been binary-compatible for all of 6.5 which was released in 1998. According to Wikipedia, since 2006 they’ve been shipping with RHEL or SuSE Linux. Currently though, the only UNIX system that has desktop superiority similar to SGI’s in the 90s is Apple’s Mac OS X which does make sense given OS X’s NeXT roots. They had people that understood UNIX workstations.Of course these days Apple is more focused these days on their more profitable ventures and tying those things in nicely and idiot-proofing things to a fault, trying to hide parts of the system from the user. SGI / IRIX weren’t afraid to mix copious amounts each of geekery, power, and sleekness (in its time) in one platform.
Hi Doogie, I found you through your youtube video on the Samsung 400DXN TV/monitor with the burned out power supply. I have the same monitor and it had been working well other than getting needing to be cleaned/vacumed to avoid the “check cooling system” message.
Does your Samsung monitor still work well? I have a new problem, the screen is flickering or strobing. I see some similar issues online, but not with the same model.
Do you have any ideas what the problem could be?
Thanks,
Richard
Good morning Richard,
I wonder if your flicker issue has to do with the back-lighting, does it seem like a flicker from brightness or does the picture actually distort when it flickers? The most common is the first one where the image brightness will flicker due to the effect from the CCFL Lamps getting old. The Back-light in your monitor is similar to the fluorescent tubes that you see in homes and office buildings. They have a ballast, and just like their larger counterparts the lamp itself can eventually wear out. They last a long while, and can last a great deal longer when remembering to set the brightness to a maximum of 75% on your monitor. These have been replaced these days by LED backlighting, which I feel works worlds better in this department. There are a couple of different kinds of LED back lights, ranging from lights around the surround like CCFLs to local LED backlighting which can dim specific areas of the panel to allow for higher contrasts in images that are extremely light and dark in the same image.
If it is your backlight, you’ll need to figure out how to determine if it’s the lamp that needs replaced or the ballast. You can swap ballasts out if you have a known good from a parts set, I don’t have any good tests or tricks to offer up for testing the tube or ballast so you’ll have to investigate and see what you can find. You can replace these tubes inside your LCD Panel but unfortunately that is NOT and easy job, and you’ll want to be sure that it is indeed the tubes before proceeding. (So it may be worth it to replace the inverter first if you can find it cheap.)
Some people have opted to actually convert their CCFL display to LED after something like this happens. I don’t recommend this unless you are okay with electronics and have actually separated a couple of LCD panels before. Depending on the solution you go with the results usually turn out OK. Converting to LEDs takes some thought, and a little bit of an investment in some very bright LEDs. I was actually able to do this to a 23″ monitor I have, since one of the CCFL tubes actually arced out to the glass, causing the tube glass to overheat and break! This would cause the inverter to shut down because it would detect one tube not working as it couldn’t strike an arc. I look some LED light strip and separated up the LCD panel and placed the light strip inside instead of the tubes. Here is a link to my post with the results: http://doogielabs.com/2012/06/lcd-monitor-has-been-repaired/
So it sounds like you have a little troubleshooting to do there. The only other thing I can think of is that on the lower right hand corner next to the power light there is a light sensor that will adjust the brightness depending on the amount of light in the room, you can try covering this sensor with your thumb or shining a light into it to temporarily adjust the brightness of the set. You may be able to use this to help your troubleshooting, you may also want to try and turn off the auto adjust setting altogether as that could be another thing causing your back-light to flicker. My monitor has been working good other than the artifacts on the display that were caused by poor handling. I had one set of dead pixels in the top right corner that have since made themselves into a line across the top of the display, which was also caused by careless humans so I definitely don’t blame Samsung for that. The display all in all has been really good to me so far, I have watched YouTube and other movies and shows on it every night before bed since purchasing it. My panel has not exhibited any of the other issues that are common, only issues with the power supply, and the replacement has held up just fine.
I hope that helps you out a little bit, if you need me to check something or compare on my set, or you have any additional questions with it please let me know I’ll be happy to help any way I can. I can also keep your info handy if you like and offer you up parts out of the set when I finally decide to retire it. Once I find another good display with less defects I will be swapping them out. Best of luck to ya!
Cheers,
Mike
Hey Doogie, call me. I’m getting hassled by a neighbor.
Hey Bob! Can you shoot me your number? I’ll text Dave too and see if I can get it from him. For some reason I don’t have your number in my phone? It’s been pretty broken the last couple months because I haven’t gotten around to flashing my new one. I’ll reach out to you later this afternoon.
Thanks,
Doogie
I bought a mw 8oo on ebay, I want accsess to the internet, From your u tube spot it looks like I need a the serria wireless gprs 750, do you have one or something else that will work.
thanks
Kim
Yes were you the same one that left a comment on my YouTube page? If you want to surf the internet outside the range of a 802.11 wireless network but within GSM cell range I have a couple of them left and can send you a modem, some software, and a clipping of an ATX 4 pin power supply connector with labelled wires. You’ll need to find two antennas, one for GPS and one for Cellular which can be had on eBay for cheap. I have the software as well which has pinouts and explains everything in detail. I can do $40 shipped to your door. If you have a PayPal you can send $40 to doogielabs@gmail.com , I can also optionally add the modem to our store and you can checkout with a credit / debit card without signing up for any sort of account. Let me know what you think
Thanks,
Mike